I'm a firm believer that one should vacation at least once a year. For the most part, I'm very consistent with this. However this past year I was getting itchy feet. It wasn't that I hadn't traveled recently, it's that I hadn't adventured. I felt a need to explore rather than laze in lounge chairs beachside every day. I wanted to try something I had never done before.
A year ago I saw some posts from a friend on Instagram. It was stunning. I asked him where he was and he told me Nicaragua. The only thing I knew about Nicaragua were the words Sandinistas and Contras. I don't remember anything about it that I would've learned in school, I just remember it was bad, which I naively brought up to him. He advised, "Yeah, Barb...that was over 20 years ago." Huh. My next stop was Chapters where I immediately picked up the most recent Lonely Planet Nicaragua. I was excited and busily bookmarking sites on Chrome. My plan was to go in March of 2018, but eventually delayed that to November 2018 so I could be there outside of high season. Had I just stuck to my original plan, I'd be writing about my adventures through Nicaragua. But I procrastinated and Nicaragua sadly became unsafe in April 2018. I needed a Plan B.
I still held out hope that everyone would get along again, but then it was Summer and nothing had changed. I came up with Plans B, C, D & E, but nothing was exciting me. I figured I would just go to Mexico. Then I became torn between Tulum and Todos Santos. I found really cute places to stay at each of them, I have a knack for that, but I just wasn't excited. I knew I would have a great time, but I didn't just want another vacation. I wanted an adventure. Someone walked by my desk and asked, "What about Belize?" The only thing I knew about Belize was that it was in Central America. I didn't even know it was an English language based country. I really need to pick up a book or two on Central America and educate myself a little. I started googling and within the hour I knew. I was going to Belize.
I caught a red-eye to Toronto, then connected down to Belize with West Jet. After waiting 90 minutes to clear customs, and a lot of gratitude to have listened to Tropic Air when they suggested my puddle jumper connector be 2 hours later over Maya Air, who said I may be able to make the flight 20 minutes after I landed. I was on my way to Placencia!
A year ago I saw some posts from a friend on Instagram. It was stunning. I asked him where he was and he told me Nicaragua. The only thing I knew about Nicaragua were the words Sandinistas and Contras. I don't remember anything about it that I would've learned in school, I just remember it was bad, which I naively brought up to him. He advised, "Yeah, Barb...that was over 20 years ago." Huh. My next stop was Chapters where I immediately picked up the most recent Lonely Planet Nicaragua. I was excited and busily bookmarking sites on Chrome. My plan was to go in March of 2018, but eventually delayed that to November 2018 so I could be there outside of high season. Had I just stuck to my original plan, I'd be writing about my adventures through Nicaragua. But I procrastinated and Nicaragua sadly became unsafe in April 2018. I needed a Plan B.
I still held out hope that everyone would get along again, but then it was Summer and nothing had changed. I came up with Plans B, C, D & E, but nothing was exciting me. I figured I would just go to Mexico. Then I became torn between Tulum and Todos Santos. I found really cute places to stay at each of them, I have a knack for that, but I just wasn't excited. I knew I would have a great time, but I didn't just want another vacation. I wanted an adventure. Someone walked by my desk and asked, "What about Belize?" The only thing I knew about Belize was that it was in Central America. I didn't even know it was an English language based country. I really need to pick up a book or two on Central America and educate myself a little. I started googling and within the hour I knew. I was going to Belize.
I caught a red-eye to Toronto, then connected down to Belize with West Jet. After waiting 90 minutes to clear customs, and a lot of gratitude to have listened to Tropic Air when they suggested my puddle jumper connector be 2 hours later over Maya Air, who said I may be able to make the flight 20 minutes after I landed. I was on my way to Placencia!
I grabbed a taxi at the airport and when we arrived, he walked me over to Heaven's Gate Beach Bungalow. I had reserved the Sea View bungalow and believe I cried out when I saw it. It really was the bright yellow bungalow on the beach. Hammock on the porch, steps leading straight into the sandy beach, and views like this. The bungalow itself had a full size fridge, coffee maker and they even left me a cell phone with preloaded minutes. I was in heaven and thought I might just postpone the adventure portion of the trip a few days. That hammock was calling my name.
I realized two things very quickly. Belize is Tulum on Valium. And as a country, Belizeans are the friendliest people I've ever met. My first night I went to Rick's Place for dinner and fell in love with Deuce, the sweet pup hanging out that night. Within 20 minutes of sitting down, Rick brought me some wine to try from a tasting he was at that night. 10 minutes later, I had a lovely woman at the table next to me giving me tips galore for all things Placencia. As first nights in a new country go, they far exceeded my expectations and filled me with so much excitement for the 17 nights still to come.
The next day I wandered down The Sidewalk towards Yoli's On Da Water. I had been told it was a lovely spot for a lazy afternoon drink. They weren't wrong. To make things even better, it was Sunday. And there is no greater thing than a Sunday in Belize. Sundays mean BBQ. I saw no evidence of a menu, but when I saw someone noshing on some ribs, I spoke up. "We've got bbq ribs, pork chops and chicken." Oh, yes please. I had some ribs with a massive mound of potato salad and rice & beans, along with a couple of Belikins. It was amazing.
I realized two things very quickly. Belize is Tulum on Valium. And as a country, Belizeans are the friendliest people I've ever met. My first night I went to Rick's Place for dinner and fell in love with Deuce, the sweet pup hanging out that night. Within 20 minutes of sitting down, Rick brought me some wine to try from a tasting he was at that night. 10 minutes later, I had a lovely woman at the table next to me giving me tips galore for all things Placencia. As first nights in a new country go, they far exceeded my expectations and filled me with so much excitement for the 17 nights still to come.
The next day I wandered down The Sidewalk towards Yoli's On Da Water. I had been told it was a lovely spot for a lazy afternoon drink. They weren't wrong. To make things even better, it was Sunday. And there is no greater thing than a Sunday in Belize. Sundays mean BBQ. I saw no evidence of a menu, but when I saw someone noshing on some ribs, I spoke up. "We've got bbq ribs, pork chops and chicken." Oh, yes please. I had some ribs with a massive mound of potato salad and rice & beans, along with a couple of Belikins. It was amazing.
I was in Placencia for 5 days, and those first 3 days were the ultimate in laziness. I lay on the beach in front of my bungalow, I lazed in the hammock when it rained, I ate, I drank, and I meandered up and down The Sidewalk. But now I was ready for some adventure. I called up Doyle at DTourz to book a tour of Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary. We went the next morning and it was outstanding. If you plan on doing this tour, which you should, definitely book with Doyle. Like all the tours, you get to hike through the trails learning about the history, the flora and the fauna, and lazily tube down the river. But Doyle adds on a little extra. Instead of just hiking up and back to Ben's Bluff Waterfall, you hike up, then rock slide back down on your ass! I was fairly nervous, but it was so much damned fun. We saw fresh jaguar prints, claw marks and poop. Then Doyle and I heard a big rustle up in a tree while the rest of the group was a ways behind us. We stopped and looked, but if it was a cat, it was hiding. I often thought, "Where are the howler monkeys!? I want to see the monkeys!" Later that night we all got together for drinks at Barefoot Bar.
My last day in Placencia, I stopped by the Placencia Tourism Center to find out how to catch a bus to San Ignacio, my next stop. The ladies were so helpful and didn't laugh at me that much when I returned minutes later to ask where I actually catch the bus. I left fairly confident that I could catch the Ritchie's 6:15 bus to Belmopan the next morning. I still showed up quite early, full of nerves, for my first Chicken Bus adventure. Some of the views along the Hummingbird Highway were absolutely majestic. When I arrived at Belmopan to switch to a westbound bus, even with it being a fairly small station, I had no idea where to line up. There were no signs, just people lining up inside waiting for the doors to lift to get on the bus waiting outside. I was checking out all the buses out front, but none were going to Benque. There were line-ups where there were no buses and buses with no line-ups. I must have looked a little lost, as a young lady asked me if I was going to Belize City. I said, no, San Ignacio. She just pointed and said to line up in that line over there. This was another of many repeated gifts showing me how kind and friendly Belizeans are.
I made it to San Ignacio and found my way to Mana Kai Camping & Cabins. Francisco met me and after showing me the communal areas and letting me know he could book any tours for me, he led me to my cabin. So far, I was 2 for 2 in my accommodation choices. I stayed in one of the Wood Cabins with Private Bath. Inside were two beds and a small bath. Outside were a couple of chairs on the front deck along with a clothesline. Over in the communal area were hammocks and chairs and 3 sweet dogs. It was so conveniently located, just across from the big market, and only a slow 5 minute walk to the main pedestrian street.
I made it to San Ignacio and found my way to Mana Kai Camping & Cabins. Francisco met me and after showing me the communal areas and letting me know he could book any tours for me, he led me to my cabin. So far, I was 2 for 2 in my accommodation choices. I stayed in one of the Wood Cabins with Private Bath. Inside were two beds and a small bath. Outside were a couple of chairs on the front deck along with a clothesline. Over in the communal area were hammocks and chairs and 3 sweet dogs. It was so conveniently located, just across from the big market, and only a slow 5 minute walk to the main pedestrian street.
I started planning what my next 3 days would entail. I desperately wanted to do the ATM Cave Tour (Actun Tunichil Muknal). Prior to coming to Belize I had read so many amazing reviews on it. This was the only thing in all of Belize I was determined to do. I figured I could also check out both the Cahal Pech and Xunantunich ruins. That first afternoon, I walked up the hill looking for Cahal Pech, about a 10 minute walk from town. I misread the arrow pointing left and walked a fair ways before realizing my blunder. I backtracked down the hill to the misleading arrow. A couple were about to do the exact same thing as me, so I stopped them and we all started up the actual hill to Cahal Pech. I wandered on my own through the ruins, once again thinking, "I want to see a monkey!!" Instead I saw some cool ruins and some lush trees. I was starting to think all the wildlife in Belize was a great myth.
The next morning I was going to catch the bus to Benque and get off at the Mopan River crossing to Xunantunich. Francisco's dad had told me if I get a cab there to make sure it's a 'shared' cab. One block away from the bus stop I saw the bus to Benque pull away. The next one wasn't for another 30 minutes, so I walked over to where all the cabs were and learned a little more about the area from my driver. He kept warning me how hard a hike up to the ruins it was and it was okay if I turned around. I kept thinking, it's only one mile! The hand cranked ferry was very cool and the view of the Mopan River just screamed that I was in the jungle. I wish I had known ahead of time how much I would love the area around San Ignacio. I definitely would have added on some days.
The next morning I was going to catch the bus to Benque and get off at the Mopan River crossing to Xunantunich. Francisco's dad had told me if I get a cab there to make sure it's a 'shared' cab. One block away from the bus stop I saw the bus to Benque pull away. The next one wasn't for another 30 minutes, so I walked over to where all the cabs were and learned a little more about the area from my driver. He kept warning me how hard a hike up to the ruins it was and it was okay if I turned around. I kept thinking, it's only one mile! The hand cranked ferry was very cool and the view of the Mopan River just screamed that I was in the jungle. I wish I had known ahead of time how much I would love the area around San Ignacio. I definitely would have added on some days.
I started my climb up the hill to the ruins, once again scouring the trees for monkeys. I was having the absolute worst wildlife luck. The views of the countryside as I climbed the gravel road just took my breath away. My imagination went wild, visualizing the people and animals who roved those fields. About 2/3 of the way up, a truck from a nearby resort stopped to give me a lift to the top. I paid my entry fee, then wandered throughout the ruins, eventually making my way to the top of El Castillo. I can't even begin to describe the views. It was unending lush jungle in every direction. To the west was Guatemala, and again, my imagination went wild.
After making my way back down the road to the hand cranked ferry, I crossed the highway to walk through the small village of San Jose Succotz. Francisco had recommended stopping at Benny's Kitchen, but I was so content just ambling quietly along the streets. I returned to the highway just as the bus was coming and flagged it down.
Back in San Ignacio, Francisco confirmed I would be on the ATM Tour the following day with Luis. Groups can be no larger than 8 and we were fortunate that there were only 5 of us plus Luis. We all quickly bonded during the drive to the site. After getting set up with helmets and headlamps, then leaving our belongings in the van, we were off on our hike to the cave entrance. Immediately we had our first, and deepest, water crossing. We swam, pulling ourselves along the rope, to the other side. 5 minutes in and we were already soaked head to toe, brimming with adventure. After 45 minutes and two more water crossings, we arrived at the cave entrance.
We turned on our headlamps and started swimming into the cave. It was exhilarating. We spent probably 45 minutes in water, whether ankle deep or over our heads. There were several moments where you had to get into a squat, angle your head a certain degree, then shimmy your way between two rocks to get to the next area. A woman from San Diego and I kept looking at each other in awe, whispering, "I can't believe we're doing this." Which was usually followed by, "I can't believe we're allowed to do this." And finally, "And we didn't even sign a waiver!"
After making my way back down the road to the hand cranked ferry, I crossed the highway to walk through the small village of San Jose Succotz. Francisco had recommended stopping at Benny's Kitchen, but I was so content just ambling quietly along the streets. I returned to the highway just as the bus was coming and flagged it down.
Back in San Ignacio, Francisco confirmed I would be on the ATM Tour the following day with Luis. Groups can be no larger than 8 and we were fortunate that there were only 5 of us plus Luis. We all quickly bonded during the drive to the site. After getting set up with helmets and headlamps, then leaving our belongings in the van, we were off on our hike to the cave entrance. Immediately we had our first, and deepest, water crossing. We swam, pulling ourselves along the rope, to the other side. 5 minutes in and we were already soaked head to toe, brimming with adventure. After 45 minutes and two more water crossings, we arrived at the cave entrance.
We turned on our headlamps and started swimming into the cave. It was exhilarating. We spent probably 45 minutes in water, whether ankle deep or over our heads. There were several moments where you had to get into a squat, angle your head a certain degree, then shimmy your way between two rocks to get to the next area. A woman from San Diego and I kept looking at each other in awe, whispering, "I can't believe we're doing this." Which was usually followed by, "I can't believe we're allowed to do this." And finally, "And we didn't even sign a waiver!"
We climbed up some rocks, finally making it to dry land, then all took our shoes off in order to not damage the relics any further. Single file, following where Luis stepped, we listened to him tell us stories and theories as to what each relic meant. He was such an amazing guide, with so much knowledge and so many theories learned from years and years of studying cave systems and the Mayan culture. It was interesting to hear his belief that the full skeleton at the end was actually a male, when everyone else is convinced it's female. The theories behind how each child was sacrificed, by the way it was found and the relics around it, just broke our hearts. The further in we would get, the worse the sacrifices would suffer. As we donned our shoes and made our way out, Luis had us form a single line, each grabbing on to the shoulder in front of us. In waist deep water, he had us turn off our headlamps as he led us blind for several minutes. Finally seeing a glimmer of light ahead, we swam our way out of the cave.
I can honestly not recommend this tour enough. I asked for adventure, and boy did I get it.
The following day I was on my way to the islands, with my first stop on Ambergris Caye. I caught my final chicken bus to Belize City, then walked across the Swing Bridge to catch the water taxi to San Pedro. I would be staying at the Sandbar Hostel the next 5 nights. I had booked a private double, but ended up in a private triple. It was huge and spotless, with sliding glass doors opening up onto a balcony overlooking the tiny pool area. Once again it was Sunday, and after getting settled in, I was heading back to Central Park for some BBQ.
I can honestly not recommend this tour enough. I asked for adventure, and boy did I get it.
The following day I was on my way to the islands, with my first stop on Ambergris Caye. I caught my final chicken bus to Belize City, then walked across the Swing Bridge to catch the water taxi to San Pedro. I would be staying at the Sandbar Hostel the next 5 nights. I had booked a private double, but ended up in a private triple. It was huge and spotless, with sliding glass doors opening up onto a balcony overlooking the tiny pool area. Once again it was Sunday, and after getting settled in, I was heading back to Central Park for some BBQ.
I spent my next 5 days wandering the island, eating, drinking, reading and lazing in the lounge chairs on the dock in front of the Sandbar. At one point I must have being walking too fast because the Belizean Police yelled out, "Slow down or we'll have to give you a speeding ticket." I laughed for days. I needed to work on my amble.
San Pedro was definitely my least favourite of all the stops and I probably wouldn't return. But that didn't mean I wasn't going to hunt down some great food. Nothing was going to top the glee from that Sunday BBQ, eaten on a bench in the park, staring out at the water, but Boogie's Belly came really close.
San Pedro was definitely my least favourite of all the stops and I probably wouldn't return. But that didn't mean I wasn't going to hunt down some great food. Nothing was going to top the glee from that Sunday BBQ, eaten on a bench in the park, staring out at the water, but Boogie's Belly came really close.
I had read online that they had the most outstanding meat pies for breakfast, but you had to show up early as they sell out very quickly. I knew there was no way I'd get there in time, but I tried anyways. He kind of chuckled when I asked, even as I stared longingly into the empty pans on the counter. So I asked him what he'd recommend. He got me my first, but definitely not last, stuffed jack. Sweet lord. It's like an omelet, but made out of fried dough, then stuffed with refried beans, eggs, cheese and meat. As I was waiting for them to cook it, a big tray of meat pies came out. My eyes were brighter than the full moon a few days later. He smiled and asked how many I wanted. One thing is for sure. Belizeans know how to do breakfast.
After 5 days, I couldn't wait to leave San Pedro. I grabbed my small backpack and walked to the water taxi that would take me to Caye Caulker, my final stop on this great adventure. The second I stepped off the boat, I knew this was the place for me. It just radiated this beautiful, laid back, welcoming, warm vibe. I walked along the beach, much slower after that speeding ticket incident, towards Colinda's Cabanas. Once again, I nailed my accommodations. Inside Cabin #7 were 2 beds, a small fridge, a coffee maker with beans and a grinder, exquisite hardwood floors and two shelves full of books! Each cabin came with bikes and there were also kayaks and snorkeling gear free of charge. This was the cabana I had been anticipating all through my trip. 75 feet from my front steps was a long dock with Adirondack Chairs and at the end of the dock? A palapa with 2 hammocks underneath.
That first night began my 5 day lobster and conch binge. For $20 BZD I had a freshly barbecued lobster with slaw, garlic toast, and the most amazing coconut rice. All while my bare feet played in the sand under the table. I definitely repeated that meal. I ate so much ceviche over the next few days, shrimp...lobster...conch, I actually thought at one point, "I never want to see another bowl of ceviche in my life." Thankfully that didn't last.
That first night began my 5 day lobster and conch binge. For $20 BZD I had a freshly barbecued lobster with slaw, garlic toast, and the most amazing coconut rice. All while my bare feet played in the sand under the table. I definitely repeated that meal. I ate so much ceviche over the next few days, shrimp...lobster...conch, I actually thought at one point, "I never want to see another bowl of ceviche in my life." Thankfully that didn't last.
My first afternoon lazing in the hammock at the end of the dock, I heard a man on the beach yelling, "Cake Man! Coconut Bread! Banana Cake!" When I looked up, I saw a man with a chef's hat and apron, riding a bike towing pastries. That was the moment I learned to bring my wallet onto the dock with me. I only saw him one more time in the next 5 days, and no matter how fast I ran, even with Caye Caulker's "Go Slow" Motto, I couldn't catch him. In chasing the Cake Man however, I discovered the Juice Lady. There was a little fruit stall with a fridge full of various local fruit juices. One litre of fresh watermelon juice for $5 BZD. It was so delicious that I went back for a litre of papaya juice.
I went to Raggamuffin Tours for the half day snorkel tour I had booked. As I walked down the sandy road, I heard my name called out. There was the couple from San Diego I met on the ATM Tour. Like me, they loved Caye Caulker so much that after leaving it to venture inland, they cancelled their San Pedro plans and instead returned to Caulker before flying home. We caught up, then went on our separate tours.
We hit 3 different snorkeling spots that morning, the last stop being where we swam with the Rays and Nurse Sharks. We were surrounded by them and it was surprisingly peaceful. I was more leery of the creepy, lurking barracuda than being surrounded by all those sharks and rays. Before heading back, we made another stop to feed the Tarpons and then to search for seahorses at the Seahorse Ranch Reserve in front of the Iguana Reef Inn. They were all hiding, but I was determined to come back and see one. I returned another day and finally saw wildlife in Belize, as a pregnant Daddy Seahorse floated by.
I went to Raggamuffin Tours for the half day snorkel tour I had booked. As I walked down the sandy road, I heard my name called out. There was the couple from San Diego I met on the ATM Tour. Like me, they loved Caye Caulker so much that after leaving it to venture inland, they cancelled their San Pedro plans and instead returned to Caulker before flying home. We caught up, then went on our separate tours.
We hit 3 different snorkeling spots that morning, the last stop being where we swam with the Rays and Nurse Sharks. We were surrounded by them and it was surprisingly peaceful. I was more leery of the creepy, lurking barracuda than being surrounded by all those sharks and rays. Before heading back, we made another stop to feed the Tarpons and then to search for seahorses at the Seahorse Ranch Reserve in front of the Iguana Reef Inn. They were all hiding, but I was determined to come back and see one. I returned another day and finally saw wildlife in Belize, as a pregnant Daddy Seahorse floated by.
Finally my trip was coming to an end and I walked the ten minutes along the beach to the airport. There were only 3 of us waiting for the plane, so they sent a small 4 seater to take us to the Belize International Airport. Sitting co-pilot in such a tiny plane was quite the end to my 19 day adventure.
All in all, Belize exceeded my expectations. I'd like to go back and explore more inland. There is just so much adventure to be had based from San Ignacio. And then maybe stay at some of the even smaller Cayes for some lazy hammocking.
My accommodations were all fantastic, especially in Placencia and Caye Caulker. However the personal attention and interest from everyone at Mana Kai, along with how cheap it was, definitely left very fond memories. All four of the places I stayed had book exchanges, which led me to fly through 7 novels in 19 days.
Getting around Belize was much easier than I anticipated. Traveling by bus is an amazing way to see the countryside at almost no cost. For convenience sake, or if you're short on time, I would definitely stick to catching a puddle jumper on arrival and departure, rather than getting a taxi in order to connect with a bus or water taxi. If you can go from one gate to the other and be in your destination in 30 minutes or less, why wouldn't you?
Belize left me smitten with Central America. In the hopefully slim chance that Nicaragua is not safe for my next adventure, I'm currently scouring through several Central America travel guides from the library. El Salvador is looking pretty intriguing right now. Then I'll be running along the Speyside Way in The Dramathon in Scotland in 2020, taking in as much whisky as I can. But until then, I'll keep saving my money, bookmarking sites and dreaming of the next one.
All in all, Belize exceeded my expectations. I'd like to go back and explore more inland. There is just so much adventure to be had based from San Ignacio. And then maybe stay at some of the even smaller Cayes for some lazy hammocking.
My accommodations were all fantastic, especially in Placencia and Caye Caulker. However the personal attention and interest from everyone at Mana Kai, along with how cheap it was, definitely left very fond memories. All four of the places I stayed had book exchanges, which led me to fly through 7 novels in 19 days.
Getting around Belize was much easier than I anticipated. Traveling by bus is an amazing way to see the countryside at almost no cost. For convenience sake, or if you're short on time, I would definitely stick to catching a puddle jumper on arrival and departure, rather than getting a taxi in order to connect with a bus or water taxi. If you can go from one gate to the other and be in your destination in 30 minutes or less, why wouldn't you?
Belize left me smitten with Central America. In the hopefully slim chance that Nicaragua is not safe for my next adventure, I'm currently scouring through several Central America travel guides from the library. El Salvador is looking pretty intriguing right now. Then I'll be running along the Speyside Way in The Dramathon in Scotland in 2020, taking in as much whisky as I can. But until then, I'll keep saving my money, bookmarking sites and dreaming of the next one.