Scotland. What an adventure.
One day in 2019, I came across a race called The Dramathon. When I learned what it was, I absolutely had to do it (see my love letter at the end to see how much I loved this race, these people, and this experience). Start at Glenfarclas, finish at Glenfiddich, then collect a bundle of mini single malts...the best goody bag in the world. I booked accommodations in Dufftown, then started planning my adventure. It took me a while to narrow down which Ways I was going to hike, but I finally decided on the West Highland Way, followed by the Great Glen Way over 11 days. I had everything except my airfare booked. Then 2020 happened. I cancelled everything and then started planning for 2021. Once again, I had everything but my airfare booked. Then 2021 happened and the race went UK only.
I started planning for 2023. This time, I decided that I was going to walk to the race from Glasgow. I had a 375km hike planned over 12 days and was going to follow it up by running a marathon along the Speyside Way. What could possibly go wrong?
So begins my story.
October 2023 came along and the race was still happening. The world hadn't collapsed. I was actually going to Scotland. I landed at Heathrow and wondered why the hell an airport is a high end mall that planes visit. My connection to Glasgow was delayed, so I decided to check the train times from Glasgow to Milngavie, where I'd be staying that night.
Cancelled.
Cancelled.
Cancelled.
Cancelled.
Cancelled.
Cancelled.
Oh. This didn't bode well. What the hell is happening? I madly started googling and realized there were amber storm warnings all over and the trains had been cancelled. Here we go again. My original plan was to catch the big purple 500 Airport bus to downtown, then hop on the train to Milngavie, but now a taxi was in order. With no time to shop before starting the West Highland Way the following morning, I picked up some snacks at the airport Marks & Sparks, then was escorted to my hotel in Milngavie by the most awesome cab driver. It was happening. I was in Scotland after 4 years of planning, and I was about to start walking 375km in less than 12 hours.
Day 1 - Milngavie to Balmaha - West Highland Way - 33.49 km - 7 hours 9 minutes
After a good night's sleep and a cup of coffee, I packed everything up, dropped some electrolytes into my water bottle, and made my way downstairs. It was a balmy 15C with a steady drizzle, and no signs of yesterday's storm besides the odd puddle.
For now.
One day in 2019, I came across a race called The Dramathon. When I learned what it was, I absolutely had to do it (see my love letter at the end to see how much I loved this race, these people, and this experience). Start at Glenfarclas, finish at Glenfiddich, then collect a bundle of mini single malts...the best goody bag in the world. I booked accommodations in Dufftown, then started planning my adventure. It took me a while to narrow down which Ways I was going to hike, but I finally decided on the West Highland Way, followed by the Great Glen Way over 11 days. I had everything except my airfare booked. Then 2020 happened. I cancelled everything and then started planning for 2021. Once again, I had everything but my airfare booked. Then 2021 happened and the race went UK only.
I started planning for 2023. This time, I decided that I was going to walk to the race from Glasgow. I had a 375km hike planned over 12 days and was going to follow it up by running a marathon along the Speyside Way. What could possibly go wrong?
So begins my story.
October 2023 came along and the race was still happening. The world hadn't collapsed. I was actually going to Scotland. I landed at Heathrow and wondered why the hell an airport is a high end mall that planes visit. My connection to Glasgow was delayed, so I decided to check the train times from Glasgow to Milngavie, where I'd be staying that night.
Cancelled.
Cancelled.
Cancelled.
Cancelled.
Cancelled.
Cancelled.
Oh. This didn't bode well. What the hell is happening? I madly started googling and realized there were amber storm warnings all over and the trains had been cancelled. Here we go again. My original plan was to catch the big purple 500 Airport bus to downtown, then hop on the train to Milngavie, but now a taxi was in order. With no time to shop before starting the West Highland Way the following morning, I picked up some snacks at the airport Marks & Sparks, then was escorted to my hotel in Milngavie by the most awesome cab driver. It was happening. I was in Scotland after 4 years of planning, and I was about to start walking 375km in less than 12 hours.
Day 1 - Milngavie to Balmaha - West Highland Way - 33.49 km - 7 hours 9 minutes
After a good night's sleep and a cup of coffee, I packed everything up, dropped some electrolytes into my water bottle, and made my way downstairs. It was a balmy 15C with a steady drizzle, and no signs of yesterday's storm besides the odd puddle.
For now.
I left the hotel with another couple, and the 3 of us started walking. I had done my research, but all I really knew was that in about 2 hours, I'd be at the Glengoyne Distillery. Shortly before this is where I saw my first Highland Coo far up in the hills. And shortly before that, well, that's where I came across the first major flooding.
The couple I started with were behind me and when I saw the path ahead, I just stopped, turned around, pointed, and laughed and laughed and laughed. Then, because what the hell, I just started plodding through the calf deep water. The field to cross to Glengoyne resembled a bog, and considering there were no tours available for another hour, I had apparently walked too fast. I had another 23km to go, so on I marched.
I took a detour into Drymen to load up on snacks, then made my way through Garadhban Forest, where I met my Irish trio. I swear to god, their packs were bigger than they were, and they were so jealous of my tiny 6 kg pack. I was definitely not jealous of theirs. They had started the day before during that big storm and asked about flooding. I was so excited to show them my photo of the calf deep water, thinking it was outrageous. They laughed and pulled out their phones. That same section, they were thigh deep the previous day.
At the junction where you can take the road down to Balmaha, or carry on via Conic Hill, there was a sign warning that the bridge at Kilandan Burn was unsafe. Well. I did my due diligence and googled Kilandan Burn, thanks to my UK SIM card with all kinds of data, but the closest results took me way up north, 215 miles away. Google maps suggested it would take 77 hours to walk there. I figured it was a pretty safe bet that was the wrong Burn. Since I had no idea where this unsafe bridge was, on I walked to Conic Hill! It was shortly after this, as I approached a gate, that I saw another sign warning about said bridge. People were walking towards me, so how bad could it be? They hadn't died, so I kept walking. I asked a man with the most beautiful dog I've ever seen about it. He told me, "I'm 100kg and he's 70. You'll be fine." I questioned everyone who came towards me, just to be sure, and each one assured me I'd have no problem getting across. After the not so traumatic bridge crossing, which two weeks later was blocked completely off, I steadily climbed up to Conic Hill. Through the fog, as I descended into the village of Balmaha, I could see glimpses of Loch Lomond in the distance. A beer, a pizza, some sticky toffee pudding and The Macallan Double Cask, and I was set for a good sleep after 7 hours of walking.
The couple I started with were behind me and when I saw the path ahead, I just stopped, turned around, pointed, and laughed and laughed and laughed. Then, because what the hell, I just started plodding through the calf deep water. The field to cross to Glengoyne resembled a bog, and considering there were no tours available for another hour, I had apparently walked too fast. I had another 23km to go, so on I marched.
I took a detour into Drymen to load up on snacks, then made my way through Garadhban Forest, where I met my Irish trio. I swear to god, their packs were bigger than they were, and they were so jealous of my tiny 6 kg pack. I was definitely not jealous of theirs. They had started the day before during that big storm and asked about flooding. I was so excited to show them my photo of the calf deep water, thinking it was outrageous. They laughed and pulled out their phones. That same section, they were thigh deep the previous day.
At the junction where you can take the road down to Balmaha, or carry on via Conic Hill, there was a sign warning that the bridge at Kilandan Burn was unsafe. Well. I did my due diligence and googled Kilandan Burn, thanks to my UK SIM card with all kinds of data, but the closest results took me way up north, 215 miles away. Google maps suggested it would take 77 hours to walk there. I figured it was a pretty safe bet that was the wrong Burn. Since I had no idea where this unsafe bridge was, on I walked to Conic Hill! It was shortly after this, as I approached a gate, that I saw another sign warning about said bridge. People were walking towards me, so how bad could it be? They hadn't died, so I kept walking. I asked a man with the most beautiful dog I've ever seen about it. He told me, "I'm 100kg and he's 70. You'll be fine." I questioned everyone who came towards me, just to be sure, and each one assured me I'd have no problem getting across. After the not so traumatic bridge crossing, which two weeks later was blocked completely off, I steadily climbed up to Conic Hill. Through the fog, as I descended into the village of Balmaha, I could see glimpses of Loch Lomond in the distance. A beer, a pizza, some sticky toffee pudding and The Macallan Double Cask, and I was set for a good sleep after 7 hours of walking.
Day 2 - Balmaha to Inverarnan - West Highland Way - 36.62 km - 8 hours 41 minutes
Today was going to be a long trek along Loch Lomond. I was out the door just after 7:30am and I anticipated a lot of water. It only took 15 minutes before I encountered my first impromptu water crossing. There were many to follow. I met Declan in the first 3km, and we would walk together, chatting non-stop, until Rowardennan. And much to my delight, we came across my Irish trio just tearing down camp along the way.
My mantra today was, "If you're thinking about food, it's time to eat." The convenient shop at The Oak Tree Inn had me well prepared with chocolate, crisps and sausage rolls.
About 3km past Rowardennan, you're faced with the dilemma, do I take the low road or the high road.
I couldn't stop singing the song.
Considering the water crossings I'd already waded through, at times thigh-deep, there was no dilemma. 100% taking the high road, so up I went, then down I went, reconnecting with the low road 4km later, with only a few puddles to splash through and a couple trees to clamber over.
Approaching the Inversnaid Hotel, the trail became much busier. I had been alone since Declan and I parted ways, only passing one group of guys on the high road, so I didn't know what to think about all these people. I filled my water up using the fountain outside the hotel and cursed my "go big or go home" attitude which had me with another 15km to go. This was supposed to be the hardest section of the West Highland Way. I knew it would feel like a long slog, but it was terrain I recognized as the roots and rocks of the North Shore where I run. So I loved clambering over the rocks, squeezing between two giant boulders and a tree, thankful my pack was so small that I didn't have to take it off to get through. And then I encountered the feral goats of Loch Lomond. I heard them up the hill and didn't think anything of it. But then, the smell. My god, the smell.
Today was going to be a long trek along Loch Lomond. I was out the door just after 7:30am and I anticipated a lot of water. It only took 15 minutes before I encountered my first impromptu water crossing. There were many to follow. I met Declan in the first 3km, and we would walk together, chatting non-stop, until Rowardennan. And much to my delight, we came across my Irish trio just tearing down camp along the way.
My mantra today was, "If you're thinking about food, it's time to eat." The convenient shop at The Oak Tree Inn had me well prepared with chocolate, crisps and sausage rolls.
About 3km past Rowardennan, you're faced with the dilemma, do I take the low road or the high road.
I couldn't stop singing the song.
Considering the water crossings I'd already waded through, at times thigh-deep, there was no dilemma. 100% taking the high road, so up I went, then down I went, reconnecting with the low road 4km later, with only a few puddles to splash through and a couple trees to clamber over.
Approaching the Inversnaid Hotel, the trail became much busier. I had been alone since Declan and I parted ways, only passing one group of guys on the high road, so I didn't know what to think about all these people. I filled my water up using the fountain outside the hotel and cursed my "go big or go home" attitude which had me with another 15km to go. This was supposed to be the hardest section of the West Highland Way. I knew it would feel like a long slog, but it was terrain I recognized as the roots and rocks of the North Shore where I run. So I loved clambering over the rocks, squeezing between two giant boulders and a tree, thankful my pack was so small that I didn't have to take it off to get through. And then I encountered the feral goats of Loch Lomond. I heard them up the hill and didn't think anything of it. But then, the smell. My god, the smell.
This is where the fun began. I can't count the times I stopped and asked myself, "Where did the trail go? Oh. It's in the lake again." This is where I would usually meet up with groups of people, crouched down, removing their boots before wading through barefoot. Luckily, I was in trail runners and just slogged through each crossing, often up to my thighs. There were so many times you'd follow some newly made bushwhacking paths, and even though these paths were muddy and slippery, it was a better alternative to swimming with your pack, which people I met later told me they had to do the previous day. I was repeatedly filled with gratitude that I started on Sunday, not Saturday. It was so comical and I took a great amount of joy out of each of these crossings. I felt like a kid again, and the banter and laughs were contagious with other hikers. I spent some of my last 6km off and on with three guys, as we tried to figure out where the trail had gone and where we could pick it up again. Sloshing through knee deep marshy grass, occasionally finding a boardwalk under water, reassuring us we were on the right track.
At 3 hours into my hike, I thought, if a boat comes by and asks if I want a ride, I wouldn't say no. Imagine my scowl when three hours later a tour boat came along and announced on the loudspeaker to its passengers, "If you look up there through the trees, you can see some hikers doing the West Highland Way" before carrying on with their tour.
At 3 hours into my hike, I thought, if a boat comes by and asks if I want a ride, I wouldn't say no. Imagine my scowl when three hours later a tour boat came along and announced on the loudspeaker to its passengers, "If you look up there through the trees, you can see some hikers doing the West Highland Way" before carrying on with their tour.
When you spend the entire day thinking you're walking the length of Loch Lomond, it's so easy to forget you still have another 5km to walk before getting to Inverarnan. The first glimpse of The Drover's Inn in the distance gave me so much joy, but it never seemed to get any closer. It was a really, really long 5km. I checked in, walked into the pub, dumped my pack on the floor and got a beer. I'd eventually make my way up to shower in the Haunted Room.
Day 3 - Inverarnan to Bridge of Orchy - West Highland Way - 31.61km - 6 hours 58 minutes
Yellow Rain Warning! Adventure! After those first two days of sporadically wading along the trail, the game each day became, "How Long Can I Keep My Feet Dry Today?" This was usually followed with, "When will I see a Highland Coo up close?" Winding along the River Falloch for most of the morning in a steady drizzle certainly didn't feel like a yellow rain warning and I thought maybe today I'll keep my feet dry.
No.
Just 2km past the Lachan Of The Lost Sword, as I was approaching Tyndrum, the skies opened up in full force. Crossing the A82, I stopped at Brodie's Mini Market and discovered the gloriousness of tattie dogs. Had I known how delightful they were, I would have bought all of them! It's a hot dog, wrapped in potato, then fried. It was hot and I was wet, and it was absolute heaven. I ate it, leaning against the side of the building under the narrowest of roof cover. And to my delight, along came the couple I met that first morning leaving Milngavie! They told me that the first day we met, they had walked 50km. And y'all thought I was nuts.
Day 3 - Inverarnan to Bridge of Orchy - West Highland Way - 31.61km - 6 hours 58 minutes
Yellow Rain Warning! Adventure! After those first two days of sporadically wading along the trail, the game each day became, "How Long Can I Keep My Feet Dry Today?" This was usually followed with, "When will I see a Highland Coo up close?" Winding along the River Falloch for most of the morning in a steady drizzle certainly didn't feel like a yellow rain warning and I thought maybe today I'll keep my feet dry.
No.
Just 2km past the Lachan Of The Lost Sword, as I was approaching Tyndrum, the skies opened up in full force. Crossing the A82, I stopped at Brodie's Mini Market and discovered the gloriousness of tattie dogs. Had I known how delightful they were, I would have bought all of them! It's a hot dog, wrapped in potato, then fried. It was hot and I was wet, and it was absolute heaven. I ate it, leaning against the side of the building under the narrowest of roof cover. And to my delight, along came the couple I met that first morning leaving Milngavie! They told me that the first day we met, they had walked 50km. And y'all thought I was nuts.
I picked up my pace because that yellow rain warning had definitely kicked in. At times I thought, if I were to lay flat on the ground, I'd stay dry because the rain is SIDEWAYS! So long as I didn't lie in a puddle of course, and there were plenty of those. You know what I didn't have today though? Mud. And trails disappearing into a Loch!
Passing by the Bridge of Orchy train station, I beamed at the workers in their heavy duty waterproof gear, and said cheekily, "Little damp out, huh?" I can still see their grins in response. Then down the road to the hotel, where I learned heated towel racks are the greatest invention from mankind. And bathtubs. Bathtubs are awesome too. And waterproof pants. There can never be enough praise for waterproof pants. They keep you dry. They're a windbreaker for your legs. They make that funny swish swish swish sound when your legs rub against each other! FUN!
Tonight? Auchentoshan.
Day 4 - Bridge of Orchy to Kinlochleven - West HIghland Way - 35.13km 8 hours 5 minutes
Walking thru the remote Rannoch Moor, surrounded by sunshine & rainbows is something I can't even describe. I spun in circles in absolute awe of its beauty. It was spectacular. I was really struggling both mentally and physically my first 6 km, then I saw a wet footprint on a rock and was reminded, even if you see nobody for hours, you're never alone. And the footprint you leave on the next rock, is a reminder to the next person. Then I met up with a couple guys I had met along Loch Lomond & they got me smiling again. And then, well...Rannoch Moor happened.
Passing by the Bridge of Orchy train station, I beamed at the workers in their heavy duty waterproof gear, and said cheekily, "Little damp out, huh?" I can still see their grins in response. Then down the road to the hotel, where I learned heated towel racks are the greatest invention from mankind. And bathtubs. Bathtubs are awesome too. And waterproof pants. There can never be enough praise for waterproof pants. They keep you dry. They're a windbreaker for your legs. They make that funny swish swish swish sound when your legs rub against each other! FUN!
Tonight? Auchentoshan.
Day 4 - Bridge of Orchy to Kinlochleven - West HIghland Way - 35.13km 8 hours 5 minutes
Walking thru the remote Rannoch Moor, surrounded by sunshine & rainbows is something I can't even describe. I spun in circles in absolute awe of its beauty. It was spectacular. I was really struggling both mentally and physically my first 6 km, then I saw a wet footprint on a rock and was reminded, even if you see nobody for hours, you're never alone. And the footprint you leave on the next rock, is a reminder to the next person. Then I met up with a couple guys I had met along Loch Lomond & they got me smiling again. And then, well...Rannoch Moor happened.
Today began climbing out of Bridge of Orchy, where two deer leapt across my path. I had a good feeling my feet would stay dry for a long time today.
I had passed a woman at the very start of the day, but other than her, I saw nobody until after the Inveroran Hotel. Today was the first time it felt lonely. I think it was a mixture of being tired, but also being alone in such a vast, open landscape. I sat on the side of the trail, putting a fresh Compeed on and having a snack and was passed by two guys. We said hello and then I sat and sulked a little longer. It wasn't until I left the trees and walked out into Rannoch Moor that my day changed. It was spectacular. SPECTACULAR.
Shortly after applying my own blister pack, I came across my two English fellas from Loch Lomond, working their own magic with tape on their feet. As soon as we realized we had met two days prior, the bond was instant. The greatest thing about these multi day hikes is the instant camaraderie you have with other hikers. You immediately connect. You may have nothing in common, but today, you have everything in common. The connection is instantaneous. You're long lost friends.
My timing today was extraordinary. Rannoch Moor is very exposed. It's known to be the best day or the worst day, all depending on the weather you hit. But there will never be any doubt it is the most beautiful day.
I had passed a woman at the very start of the day, but other than her, I saw nobody until after the Inveroran Hotel. Today was the first time it felt lonely. I think it was a mixture of being tired, but also being alone in such a vast, open landscape. I sat on the side of the trail, putting a fresh Compeed on and having a snack and was passed by two guys. We said hello and then I sat and sulked a little longer. It wasn't until I left the trees and walked out into Rannoch Moor that my day changed. It was spectacular. SPECTACULAR.
Shortly after applying my own blister pack, I came across my two English fellas from Loch Lomond, working their own magic with tape on their feet. As soon as we realized we had met two days prior, the bond was instant. The greatest thing about these multi day hikes is the instant camaraderie you have with other hikers. You immediately connect. You may have nothing in common, but today, you have everything in common. The connection is instantaneous. You're long lost friends.
My timing today was extraordinary. Rannoch Moor is very exposed. It's known to be the best day or the worst day, all depending on the weather you hit. But there will never be any doubt it is the most beautiful day.
I made my way across the moor in calm skies and beautiful sunshine. I smiled the entire way, often spinning around in admiration of the beauty. I couldn't believe how much more incredible this scenery was in comparison to everything else I'd witnessed. You could see the violence in the mountains, the bleakness in the desolate landscape, and yet, a rainbow would frame your view, bringing untold joy and excitement that you can see exactly where it touches land to find the pot of gold. Today would be a day I'd never forget.
Just as I was approaching Glencoe, the biggest understatement I could make is that the winds picked up. It was as though Mother Nature had decided it would lighten my load and let me experience this glorious landscape, but now that I'd passed, it could go back to being harsh and exposed. The wind was BRUTAL. So brutal that I snot rocketed right into my eye. I was being blown sideways by the gusts. This wind felt stronger than any gust I felt on the cliffs in Portugal during an orange warning storm. I stumbled my way down to the road leading to Glencoe Resort. Every time a bus or truck would pass, it would momentarily block the wind, but the second it passed, you'd get knocked to the side from the sudden gust. I was getting so cold and made the decision to change from shorts to my merino tights. I whipped off my waterproof pants and stood on them so they wouldn't fly away, then got naked on the trail, madly scrambling to get my tights back on before someone came along. Ten minutes later, I was at the public showers and toilets, where I could have changed in a wind-free heated space. But that's not as funny as getting naked on a trail and hoping your pants don't blow away.
Just as I was approaching Glencoe, the biggest understatement I could make is that the winds picked up. It was as though Mother Nature had decided it would lighten my load and let me experience this glorious landscape, but now that I'd passed, it could go back to being harsh and exposed. The wind was BRUTAL. So brutal that I snot rocketed right into my eye. I was being blown sideways by the gusts. This wind felt stronger than any gust I felt on the cliffs in Portugal during an orange warning storm. I stumbled my way down to the road leading to Glencoe Resort. Every time a bus or truck would pass, it would momentarily block the wind, but the second it passed, you'd get knocked to the side from the sudden gust. I was getting so cold and made the decision to change from shorts to my merino tights. I whipped off my waterproof pants and stood on them so they wouldn't fly away, then got naked on the trail, madly scrambling to get my tights back on before someone came along. Ten minutes later, I was at the public showers and toilets, where I could have changed in a wind-free heated space. But that's not as funny as getting naked on a trail and hoping your pants don't blow away.
Next up. The Devil's Staircase. When researching the West Highland Way, the two things you always hear about is how technical and how long Loch Lomond will take and the Devil's Staircase. Oddly enough, I enjoyed both of them. The Devil's Staircase is just a long, slow ascent of switchbacks. I'd already walked about 120km since starting this journey 3 days prior. Though every day was exhausting, my body was so much stronger. So, up I slogged, chatting with the many hikers who were either there solely for the Devil's Staircase, or going onward to Fort William like myself.
It was a long, long descent into Kinlochleven, and that last long gravel road was excruciating. It was steep and it was long and it just never seemed to end. I was exhausted and at times wanted to just plant my ass on the ground. But walking that trail among all those hills before that long gravel road was absolutely stunning. Today was the best day. When I finally arrived into Kinlochleven, I walked the final bit into town with a wonderful couple. I was greeted with ten deer as I approached the stairs that would lead me to my B&B. Then I arrived at my B&B and not only was there a bath tub, they had muscle soak bath salts. Amazing.
Day 5 - Kinlochleven to Fort William - West Highland Way - 26.11km 5 hours 46 minutes
Leaving Kinlochleven, I was warned it's a big climb to start your day, but then it's an easy walk to Fort William. They didn't steer me wrong. It's a 6km climb out of town, and those first 3km are steep, with multiple 25% grades. The Devil's Staircase was nothing in comparison to this. But once you've peaked, it's a beautiful amble along the old military road. The view back to Kinlochleven was absolutely mystical, with the town partially shrouded in low clouds.
It was a long, long descent into Kinlochleven, and that last long gravel road was excruciating. It was steep and it was long and it just never seemed to end. I was exhausted and at times wanted to just plant my ass on the ground. But walking that trail among all those hills before that long gravel road was absolutely stunning. Today was the best day. When I finally arrived into Kinlochleven, I walked the final bit into town with a wonderful couple. I was greeted with ten deer as I approached the stairs that would lead me to my B&B. Then I arrived at my B&B and not only was there a bath tub, they had muscle soak bath salts. Amazing.
Day 5 - Kinlochleven to Fort William - West Highland Way - 26.11km 5 hours 46 minutes
Leaving Kinlochleven, I was warned it's a big climb to start your day, but then it's an easy walk to Fort William. They didn't steer me wrong. It's a 6km climb out of town, and those first 3km are steep, with multiple 25% grades. The Devil's Staircase was nothing in comparison to this. But once you've peaked, it's a beautiful amble along the old military road. The view back to Kinlochleven was absolutely mystical, with the town partially shrouded in low clouds.
Along the Way, everyone starts and stops at different points. It all depends how long you want to walk each day. But today, everyone starts at Kinlochleven and journeys on to Fort William. There were always other hikers in sight today, which was comforting, but also reminded me how special it was to be alone out there.
When I saw that first glimpse of Ben Nevis in the distance, I had to bring up google maps to ensure that was in fact the mighty Ben Nevis. I just couldn't believe I was almost done. Of course, seeing Ben Nevis that first time doesn't really mean you're almost done. I would still have another two hours to go.
When I saw that first glimpse of Ben Nevis in the distance, I had to bring up google maps to ensure that was in fact the mighty Ben Nevis. I just couldn't believe I was almost done. Of course, seeing Ben Nevis that first time doesn't really mean you're almost done. I would still have another two hours to go.
The other hikers had thinned out by this point, and I was down to just a handful of people that would pop in and out of view. After passing the turnoff to Dùn Deardail, the epicness of Ben Nevis is in your face. Seeing those switchbacks climbing up in the distance had me so grateful I made the decision to start the Great Glen Way rather than climb Ben Nevis.
I stopped in at the Glen Nevis Visitor Centre to pee and when I stepped back out, it was pouring. Monsoon downpour. I couldn't stop laughing. I had a 4km walk along the road to get to town and my feet were no longer going to be dry. When I made that first turn into town, I started to get emotional. Those last few blocks were a roller coaster of emotions. When planning this trip, I set distances that would push me so hard. My body, mostly my feet, would start to ache at around 4 or 5 hours, but my days would sometimes go past 8 hours. I was so fucking proud of what I'd accomplished. I stood alone at the bench with the statue of the weary hiker. In the pouring rain, the sweetest lady took my phone and got some photos of me sitting with him.
I went to my hotel for a shower and to sit and take in what I had just completed. I didn't want to think about what was still ahead just yet. I finally stepped out to get some food, and as I approached the finish of the West Highland Way, who do I see 30 feet away, just making their way to the statue, but my two English blokes. I was jumping up and down, so excited to be able to see their finish. We went for some pints, then I made my way back out to get some food. And who do I see just about to finish, but that lovely couple I stumbled into Kinlochleven with. One of the best things is getting to see the smiles and sense of accomplishment on someone else's face. I was so damned proud of them.
I went to the Black Isle Bar just behind the finish and had a big ass pizza and some beer. Then it was back to re-organize my pack and get some sleep. The West Highland Way may be complete, but The Great Glen Way starts tomorrow.
I stopped in at the Glen Nevis Visitor Centre to pee and when I stepped back out, it was pouring. Monsoon downpour. I couldn't stop laughing. I had a 4km walk along the road to get to town and my feet were no longer going to be dry. When I made that first turn into town, I started to get emotional. Those last few blocks were a roller coaster of emotions. When planning this trip, I set distances that would push me so hard. My body, mostly my feet, would start to ache at around 4 or 5 hours, but my days would sometimes go past 8 hours. I was so fucking proud of what I'd accomplished. I stood alone at the bench with the statue of the weary hiker. In the pouring rain, the sweetest lady took my phone and got some photos of me sitting with him.
I went to my hotel for a shower and to sit and take in what I had just completed. I didn't want to think about what was still ahead just yet. I finally stepped out to get some food, and as I approached the finish of the West Highland Way, who do I see 30 feet away, just making their way to the statue, but my two English blokes. I was jumping up and down, so excited to be able to see their finish. We went for some pints, then I made my way back out to get some food. And who do I see just about to finish, but that lovely couple I stumbled into Kinlochleven with. One of the best things is getting to see the smiles and sense of accomplishment on someone else's face. I was so damned proud of them.
I went to the Black Isle Bar just behind the finish and had a big ass pizza and some beer. Then it was back to re-organize my pack and get some sleep. The West Highland Way may be complete, but The Great Glen Way starts tomorrow.
Day 6 - Fort William to South Laggan - Great Glen Way - 38.23 km 7 hours 32 minutes
Today was much cooler. Looking up at Ben Nevis as I walked out of Fort William, I could see a dusting of snow. It was beautiful, but I was so thankful I'd decided to walk on rather than climb that monstrosity. In my head, today was going to be so much easier. It would be flat and amble along a canal for the most part. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.
And it was, until it wasn't.
Walking along the canal to Gairlochy was fairly monotonous, and so different from what I had just completed. I was trying so hard not to compare this to what I'd just done and take this on as a brand new adventure. It wasn't until I passed Gairlochy and veered to the left side of Loch Lochy, that the views began to change. I'd moved from a flat, hard packed lane onto a nice little single track along the shore. Shortly after, this would become a long walk on pavement before ascending a gravel road high above the Loch.
Today was much cooler. Looking up at Ben Nevis as I walked out of Fort William, I could see a dusting of snow. It was beautiful, but I was so thankful I'd decided to walk on rather than climb that monstrosity. In my head, today was going to be so much easier. It would be flat and amble along a canal for the most part. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.
And it was, until it wasn't.
Walking along the canal to Gairlochy was fairly monotonous, and so different from what I had just completed. I was trying so hard not to compare this to what I'd just done and take this on as a brand new adventure. It wasn't until I passed Gairlochy and veered to the left side of Loch Lochy, that the views began to change. I'd moved from a flat, hard packed lane onto a nice little single track along the shore. Shortly after, this would become a long walk on pavement before ascending a gravel road high above the Loch.
It was at the peak of this gravel road where I would come across the greatest thing in the middle of nowhere. Out of the blue, I see something bright up ahead. The closer I got, the more disbelief I had. Smack dab in the middle of the forest, a great big statue of a bear, with all its camping gear on its back. What in the world? Leading down the side of the road was a spongey path to the lake. And in the distance, I could see another bear. What is happening!? I had to go check this out.
This statue was a bear holding toilet paper, squatting to poop with a sign that read, "Don't be a bear. Poo in there!" just next to an outhouse. It appears that I've come across the coolest wild camping spot there could ever be. Had I not had such a fondness for beds and hot showers, this would totally be a place I would stop, no matter how far into the day's hike I was.
Just after this wonderful surprise, I began the Great Glen Way Diversion. What they have built here is absolutely spectacular. The beautifully groomed gravel paths switch-backing up the hill had multiple look out points with some built up shelter from the gusty winds and benches to rest while you enjoy your snacks. Views went on forever. Heading back downhill, I met back up with the Caledonian Canal, crossed my final bridge of the day, and enjoyed the final 2km along a nice dirt path. It was so nice on the feet after 7 hours of hard packed surface.
This statue was a bear holding toilet paper, squatting to poop with a sign that read, "Don't be a bear. Poo in there!" just next to an outhouse. It appears that I've come across the coolest wild camping spot there could ever be. Had I not had such a fondness for beds and hot showers, this would totally be a place I would stop, no matter how far into the day's hike I was.
Just after this wonderful surprise, I began the Great Glen Way Diversion. What they have built here is absolutely spectacular. The beautifully groomed gravel paths switch-backing up the hill had multiple look out points with some built up shelter from the gusty winds and benches to rest while you enjoy your snacks. Views went on forever. Heading back downhill, I met back up with the Caledonian Canal, crossed my final bridge of the day, and enjoyed the final 2km along a nice dirt path. It was so nice on the feet after 7 hours of hard packed surface.
Day 7 - South Laggan to Fort Augustus - Great Glen Way - 20.38km 4 hours 19 minutes
With such a short day planned, I lazed about the hostel until almost 9:30. It was brisk outside! I got bundled up, then started out along the canal to the Invergarry Swing Bridge, which would take me to the mandatory Diversion to Fort Augustus. I was warned I could encounter flooding today and to use the swing bridges at Aberchalder to avoid this. That storm from last week was still trying to keep my feet wet!
After a couple climbs on each side of Invergarry, I made my way across the Aberchalder Swing Bridge to walk on the south side of the canal to avoid the flooding. Looking across to the weir on the other side, it looked like there were still some little sections of flooding and I was so thankful I'd been warned. About 800m later, I reached the Old Lock Keeper's Cottage and skipped across the swing bridge to take me back to the north side. Wet feet averted! As a reward, I pulled out my pancakes and questioned again, why in the world don't Canadian bread companies make packaged pancakes. They are everywhere in Scotland and it's absolutely delightful!
I ambled into Fort Augustus much too early for my room to be ready, so dropped my pack off and wandered through the town. I went straight to the edge of Loch Ness to search for Nessie, but alas, no giant monster swimming along.
Day 8 - Fort Augustus to Drumnadrochit - Great Glen Way - 34.85km 7 hours 21 minutes
Today was soul sucking. But even as soul sucking as it was, it was still extraordinary. I took the low route to Invermoriston, and it was a lovely walk in the woods along a fire road. It felt like Christmasland and I pictured all those growing trees covered in twinkle lights. Being on the low route, I was often surprised to have so many views of Loch Ness from high above. It was a quick two hour stroll on the low route to Invermoriston.
With such a short day planned, I lazed about the hostel until almost 9:30. It was brisk outside! I got bundled up, then started out along the canal to the Invergarry Swing Bridge, which would take me to the mandatory Diversion to Fort Augustus. I was warned I could encounter flooding today and to use the swing bridges at Aberchalder to avoid this. That storm from last week was still trying to keep my feet wet!
After a couple climbs on each side of Invergarry, I made my way across the Aberchalder Swing Bridge to walk on the south side of the canal to avoid the flooding. Looking across to the weir on the other side, it looked like there were still some little sections of flooding and I was so thankful I'd been warned. About 800m later, I reached the Old Lock Keeper's Cottage and skipped across the swing bridge to take me back to the north side. Wet feet averted! As a reward, I pulled out my pancakes and questioned again, why in the world don't Canadian bread companies make packaged pancakes. They are everywhere in Scotland and it's absolutely delightful!
I ambled into Fort Augustus much too early for my room to be ready, so dropped my pack off and wandered through the town. I went straight to the edge of Loch Ness to search for Nessie, but alas, no giant monster swimming along.
Day 8 - Fort Augustus to Drumnadrochit - Great Glen Way - 34.85km 7 hours 21 minutes
Today was soul sucking. But even as soul sucking as it was, it was still extraordinary. I took the low route to Invermoriston, and it was a lovely walk in the woods along a fire road. It felt like Christmasland and I pictured all those growing trees covered in twinkle lights. Being on the low route, I was often surprised to have so many views of Loch Ness from high above. It was a quick two hour stroll on the low route to Invermoriston.
After climbing the steep switchbacks leaving Invermoriston, I met a man walking his dog who wished me good weather on the rest of my hike. On a day where I was struggling, they made me smile as I carried on into the trees. For now, it was a lovely path through the woods. Knowing I was on the high route, I was really surprised to not have any views of Loch Ness. It had a very remote feel to this section of the walk and I often wondered if I'd gone the wrong way, so I would take immense pleasure every time I'd see the pale blue Great Glen Way arrows directing me on my journey. It was a comfort and a reassurance every time.
The path uphill was narrow and at times fairly rocky and muddy. I'd often see bike tracks and marvel at how they'd done this. The first day, walking to South Laggan along the canal, I saw many cyclists out for a ride. With how my feet felt that day, I wished I had a bike for that leg. But today, seeing those tracks, I was so thankful I wasn't riding. It was at the peak of the first big climb, with views of vast hills and farmland, I encountered The Viewfinder. I knew this piece of art was in this section, but still, it's so surprising to see these unexpected delights in the middle of nowhere.
A quick descent, with a mad sprint across the Troll Bridge, and I was off to my last big climb of the day, up to the highest point of the Great Glen Way. It was here that I would be left spellbound.
The path uphill was narrow and at times fairly rocky and muddy. I'd often see bike tracks and marvel at how they'd done this. The first day, walking to South Laggan along the canal, I saw many cyclists out for a ride. With how my feet felt that day, I wished I had a bike for that leg. But today, seeing those tracks, I was so thankful I wasn't riding. It was at the peak of the first big climb, with views of vast hills and farmland, I encountered The Viewfinder. I knew this piece of art was in this section, but still, it's so surprising to see these unexpected delights in the middle of nowhere.
A quick descent, with a mad sprint across the Troll Bridge, and I was off to my last big climb of the day, up to the highest point of the Great Glen Way. It was here that I would be left spellbound.
Reaching the peak and seeing the breathtaking Loch Ness in all its glory was incredible. I hadn't seen a soul in hours and I was absolutely in awe of these views. I had started today's walk at the south tip of Loch Ness. Even though I could see back along the loch for miles and miles, I couldn't see the tip where I had begun. It put it into perspective just how far I'd been walking each day.
But now, what goes up must come down, and so begins my long journey into Drumnadrochit. The 6km descent was beautiful, with views of Loch Ness for most of the way. It was hard to believe that it was only hours ago when I wondered if I'd ever see Loch Ness today. It was funny that it took almost 20km alongside Loch Ness before she'd appear and of course, I scoured the lake for Nessie to no avail. I was exhausted and my feet were equally tired and aching. I kept checking my watch to try to calculate how much further I had to go. When I came across the sign that said I only had 7 miles to go, I was so excited. Just over 2 hours to go! I made my way through all the xmas trees and merged onto a road. An absolute soul sucking 8 km road to Drumnadrochit. It just never ended. It went on and on and on. My feet were killing me and my mental game was deteriorating rapidly. Two hours felt like four. I just wanted to get to my hotel and get there now. I was over the moon to see the path ahead veer into the woods away from the road. I kept pulling my gps out to see how close I was to my hotel. When I made that final stretch along that hard packed rocky road, I glanced across the River Coiltie and saw my hotel. After all the wading I'd done when the trail went into Loch Lomond on day 2, I was so ready to jump in and wade across instead of walk around. I had made it, but I was desperate for an IrnBru and some heavy duty snacks, so first, it was off to the Co-Op. When I got to my hotel, I desperately kicked off my shoes, sat on the bed and scarfed down a pack of Scotch Eggs, chased with an IrnBru.
They can't all be fabulous days, but the GlenAllachie 12 that evening was spectacular.
But now, what goes up must come down, and so begins my long journey into Drumnadrochit. The 6km descent was beautiful, with views of Loch Ness for most of the way. It was hard to believe that it was only hours ago when I wondered if I'd ever see Loch Ness today. It was funny that it took almost 20km alongside Loch Ness before she'd appear and of course, I scoured the lake for Nessie to no avail. I was exhausted and my feet were equally tired and aching. I kept checking my watch to try to calculate how much further I had to go. When I came across the sign that said I only had 7 miles to go, I was so excited. Just over 2 hours to go! I made my way through all the xmas trees and merged onto a road. An absolute soul sucking 8 km road to Drumnadrochit. It just never ended. It went on and on and on. My feet were killing me and my mental game was deteriorating rapidly. Two hours felt like four. I just wanted to get to my hotel and get there now. I was over the moon to see the path ahead veer into the woods away from the road. I kept pulling my gps out to see how close I was to my hotel. When I made that final stretch along that hard packed rocky road, I glanced across the River Coiltie and saw my hotel. After all the wading I'd done when the trail went into Loch Lomond on day 2, I was so ready to jump in and wade across instead of walk around. I had made it, but I was desperate for an IrnBru and some heavy duty snacks, so first, it was off to the Co-Op. When I got to my hotel, I desperately kicked off my shoes, sat on the bed and scarfed down a pack of Scotch Eggs, chased with an IrnBru.
They can't all be fabulous days, but the GlenAllachie 12 that evening was spectacular.
Day 9 - Drumnadrochit to Inverness - Great Glen Way - 33.48km 7 hours 11 minutes
Cows, cows and more cows! Not only cows, but highland coos, and I hadn't even made it out of Drumnadrochit yet! I was still exhausted, and leaving town, I felt no better mentally than the day before. Then I saw all the coos! FINALLY! Before leaving for this trip I had said, I'm not getting back on the plane to Vancouver until I've seen a Highland Coo. There was that one way up in the hills on my first day of the West Highland Way, but until now, I started to think my animal curse while traveling was back in place.
For a section that probably had about 10km of pavement, today was lovely. Would I recommend this way? Definitely not. It was absolutely beautiful and I truly enjoyed it, but the majority of trail was hard packed fire road, which over time is so hard on your feet. Then you throw in all that pavement? No thanks. I loved every time it swung into the forest. My heart would sing being surrounded by all those trees.
The first 4km of the day would take me along the busy road leaving town, but then it veered up into the hills through farmland. It was a beautiful day and I left my waterproof pants rolled up in my pack. There were a lot of gates to open and close just a short distance apart, but soon I would leave the farmland and enter the woods onto another hard packed gravel road. About 10km into my day, I came across the Abriachan Forest Walks and took the detour to do a little sight seeing. There were some lovely boardwalks and trails taking you from iron age hut to tree house and then out to have some handcrafted bird sign posts guide you away along the dirt road.
Cows, cows and more cows! Not only cows, but highland coos, and I hadn't even made it out of Drumnadrochit yet! I was still exhausted, and leaving town, I felt no better mentally than the day before. Then I saw all the coos! FINALLY! Before leaving for this trip I had said, I'm not getting back on the plane to Vancouver until I've seen a Highland Coo. There was that one way up in the hills on my first day of the West Highland Way, but until now, I started to think my animal curse while traveling was back in place.
For a section that probably had about 10km of pavement, today was lovely. Would I recommend this way? Definitely not. It was absolutely beautiful and I truly enjoyed it, but the majority of trail was hard packed fire road, which over time is so hard on your feet. Then you throw in all that pavement? No thanks. I loved every time it swung into the forest. My heart would sing being surrounded by all those trees.
The first 4km of the day would take me along the busy road leaving town, but then it veered up into the hills through farmland. It was a beautiful day and I left my waterproof pants rolled up in my pack. There were a lot of gates to open and close just a short distance apart, but soon I would leave the farmland and enter the woods onto another hard packed gravel road. About 10km into my day, I came across the Abriachan Forest Walks and took the detour to do a little sight seeing. There were some lovely boardwalks and trails taking you from iron age hut to tree house and then out to have some handcrafted bird sign posts guide you away along the dirt road.
I had been warned that there would be much pavement and hard packed road today, but surprisingly after yesterday, it wasn't nearly as bad. I'm not sure if it's because it was in the middle of the day's hike rather than at the end, or knowing this was my last day on the Great Glen Way which played the factor. Probably both. When I saw a hiker coming towards me on a path above the road, I knew the pavement would be over soon and I'd head back into the trees.
I was starting to get more excited, knowing the end was close. When I came out of the trees and saw Inverness in the distance, I lit up. It's so hard to fathom how long it's still going to take you once you can see your destination, something I would forget at the end of each day when a town would appear in the distance. I finally made my way downhill into Inverness and knocked another way off the list. 9 days in and I'd hiked 290km from Glasgow to Inverness. I still had 3 days of hiking planned, followed by running The Dramathon. I just couldn't wrap my head around this. So far, this had been an extraordinary adventure, and I wasn't done yet. Tomorrow, I'd take a short cut on a train and start walking the Moray Coast Trail.
I was starting to get more excited, knowing the end was close. When I came out of the trees and saw Inverness in the distance, I lit up. It's so hard to fathom how long it's still going to take you once you can see your destination, something I would forget at the end of each day when a town would appear in the distance. I finally made my way downhill into Inverness and knocked another way off the list. 9 days in and I'd hiked 290km from Glasgow to Inverness. I still had 3 days of hiking planned, followed by running The Dramathon. I just couldn't wrap my head around this. So far, this had been an extraordinary adventure, and I wasn't done yet. Tomorrow, I'd take a short cut on a train and start walking the Moray Coast Trail.
Day 10 - Forres to Lossiemouth - Moray Coast Trail - 37.84km 7 hours 38 minutes
My body and my brain were getting so tired. I tried to remind myself I'd walked 290 km in 10 days and only two of those days were under 31km, but I was just so mentally exhausted. I caught an early train from Inverness to Forres, then bundled up before leaving the train station. It was so tempting to hop a bus to Findhorn and skip that first 10km on road, but then I wouldn't be able to pass the lovely Benromach Distillery. So onwards I walked. I was so glad I did. I was walking along a country road, surrounded by farms and cows. MORE COWS! Sadly there would be no more Highland Coos.
Getting to the coast just past Findhorn was so refreshing. The sun was shining, it was warming up, Storm Babet was on her way, but I still had a couple days before she'd do her damage. It was such a treat to have soft ground under my feet. I walked through the dunes, then followed a path parallel to the shore, before veering into the woods. It had everything. I had the ocean on my left, forest on my right, and a soft dirt path through the trees. It helped to reset my exhausted brain.
My body and my brain were getting so tired. I tried to remind myself I'd walked 290 km in 10 days and only two of those days were under 31km, but I was just so mentally exhausted. I caught an early train from Inverness to Forres, then bundled up before leaving the train station. It was so tempting to hop a bus to Findhorn and skip that first 10km on road, but then I wouldn't be able to pass the lovely Benromach Distillery. So onwards I walked. I was so glad I did. I was walking along a country road, surrounded by farms and cows. MORE COWS! Sadly there would be no more Highland Coos.
Getting to the coast just past Findhorn was so refreshing. The sun was shining, it was warming up, Storm Babet was on her way, but I still had a couple days before she'd do her damage. It was such a treat to have soft ground under my feet. I walked through the dunes, then followed a path parallel to the shore, before veering into the woods. It had everything. I had the ocean on my left, forest on my right, and a soft dirt path through the trees. It helped to reset my exhausted brain.
I was excited to reach Burghead. There was an IrnBru with my name on it waiting in the co-op. I couldn't wait to get fresh snacks and just take a moment to re-fuel. In the meantime, I relished the stroll through the Roseisle Pine Forest past the cute little bird blind. Once through Burghead, IrnBru in hand, snacks in my belly, the scenery changed for the umpteenth time today. For the next 4km, I walked a lovely paved seawall to the town of Hopeman. Then it changed once again, following a path behind the cutest, most colourful cabanas, scaling its way up to the top of the cliffs. I chatted with a couple older gents beside a bench who told me I was in for a lovely walk when they learned I was going on to Lossiemouth today.
When I made it up to the clifftops, my brain went immediately to the orange warning storm while walking the cliffs in Portugal. I think there must still be a bit of PTSD lingering because on a narrow path, getting ambushed by spiky gorse, all I could think was, "Head down. Focus on the ground. Pick up your feet. Move forward. Just go." I wanted desperately to look at the gorgeous views, but my brain just wanted me off that skinny path traversing the cliffs and there was no arguing with it. I realized then, that day walking to Odeceixe did a number on me. Today I laugh about hunkering down next to a dune to shelter from the gusts and sideways rain, but hidden deep in my brain, cliffs are evil.
Thankfully, in no time, the path would wind its way down to the beach, leaving me a lovely 5km walk along the sandy shore. It was almost time to find my hotel and fill my belly with a big juicy burger, layered with onion rings. And of course, a beer.
When I made it up to the clifftops, my brain went immediately to the orange warning storm while walking the cliffs in Portugal. I think there must still be a bit of PTSD lingering because on a narrow path, getting ambushed by spiky gorse, all I could think was, "Head down. Focus on the ground. Pick up your feet. Move forward. Just go." I wanted desperately to look at the gorgeous views, but my brain just wanted me off that skinny path traversing the cliffs and there was no arguing with it. I realized then, that day walking to Odeceixe did a number on me. Today I laugh about hunkering down next to a dune to shelter from the gusts and sideways rain, but hidden deep in my brain, cliffs are evil.
Thankfully, in no time, the path would wind its way down to the beach, leaving me a lovely 5km walk along the sandy shore. It was almost time to find my hotel and fill my belly with a big juicy burger, layered with onion rings. And of course, a beer.
Day 10 - Lossiemouth to Buckie - Moray Coast Trail - 26.40km 5 hours 25 minutes
What a difference a day makes. Babet's yellow rain and wind warnings were on for the next day, so I decided to make this section my last day hiking and catch a bus to Craigellachie the next morning. I can't decide if it's because of this decision, or if it was just so pretty, but today was awesome.
It was incredibly windy along the beach leaving Lossiemouth. The sand was flying, the storm clouds were rolling in, Storm Babet was letting me know she was on her way, so take notice. Taking the new footbridge across to the beach, I began my day being blown from side to side, laughing like a lunatic. Once again, I felt like a little kid.
The sand eventually turned to pebbles and the path moved to the other side of the dunes, giving me a big reprieve from the wind. Approaching the military firing range, I was thankful, but still skeptical, when I saw no flag in the air to warn me of gunfire. I was ready to duck and cover at a moment's notice! I was even more thankful to not see a flag when I arrived at the far side of the range I had just crossed.
Shortly before Spey Bay, the path would head inland, along a rocky lane between two rugged fields, past the most beautiful horses. I went up the trail, climbing above the farms, before descending back down to Garmouth and Spey Bay.
When I crossed the bridge spanning the Spey River, I realized I had made it. I'd walked to Speyside. It was so hard to wrap my brain around this. I came to Scotland to run the Dramathon, everything else was a bonus. When I first decided to walk to the race, I let them know and we had such a great banter going on social media. I knew I still had another 13km to Buckie, but I was crossing the Spey, where all that wonderful Speyside whisky originates, and I had walked here. It was an amazing feeling.
What a difference a day makes. Babet's yellow rain and wind warnings were on for the next day, so I decided to make this section my last day hiking and catch a bus to Craigellachie the next morning. I can't decide if it's because of this decision, or if it was just so pretty, but today was awesome.
It was incredibly windy along the beach leaving Lossiemouth. The sand was flying, the storm clouds were rolling in, Storm Babet was letting me know she was on her way, so take notice. Taking the new footbridge across to the beach, I began my day being blown from side to side, laughing like a lunatic. Once again, I felt like a little kid.
The sand eventually turned to pebbles and the path moved to the other side of the dunes, giving me a big reprieve from the wind. Approaching the military firing range, I was thankful, but still skeptical, when I saw no flag in the air to warn me of gunfire. I was ready to duck and cover at a moment's notice! I was even more thankful to not see a flag when I arrived at the far side of the range I had just crossed.
Shortly before Spey Bay, the path would head inland, along a rocky lane between two rugged fields, past the most beautiful horses. I went up the trail, climbing above the farms, before descending back down to Garmouth and Spey Bay.
When I crossed the bridge spanning the Spey River, I realized I had made it. I'd walked to Speyside. It was so hard to wrap my brain around this. I came to Scotland to run the Dramathon, everything else was a bonus. When I first decided to walk to the race, I let them know and we had such a great banter going on social media. I knew I still had another 13km to Buckie, but I was crossing the Spey, where all that wonderful Speyside whisky originates, and I had walked here. It was an amazing feeling.
It was here where the Moray Coast Trail & The Speyside Way became one. I would now be walking both paths all the way to Buckie. After crossing the Spey, I followed the path back to the shore with the river rushing towards the sea on my left. A nice walk through the woods, the fields, and finally the road into Buckie and my walking was complete. 355km in 11 days. One more night's sleep, then I'd be on my way to Craigellachie to run The Dramathon and drink a lot of whisky. This is why I came to Scotland.
The Dramathon
I caught the bus to Elgin, then connected towards Craigellachie. Since this was the same bus that goes to Aberlour, I decided to stay on and get off at the stop directly outside the Walker's Shortbread shop for supplies! I mean, I had to run a marathon in 2 days, I needed cookies and mince tarts and fruit cake to fuel up! When I left the shop, sweets in hand, and saw the bus heading back to Craigellachie was only 15 minutes away, well, that settled it. I'd take the bus back rather than walk in this monsoon!
The Dramathon
I caught the bus to Elgin, then connected towards Craigellachie. Since this was the same bus that goes to Aberlour, I decided to stay on and get off at the stop directly outside the Walker's Shortbread shop for supplies! I mean, I had to run a marathon in 2 days, I needed cookies and mince tarts and fruit cake to fuel up! When I left the shop, sweets in hand, and saw the bus heading back to Craigellachie was only 15 minutes away, well, that settled it. I'd take the bus back rather than walk in this monsoon!
Settling into the Whisky Room, half a block and a long staircase away from The Highlander Inn, I started to make my plans to go to Dufftown the following day and pick up my race package. The race was still a go! The winds really picked up and the power went out in the late afternoon. The lovely folks running the place came by with a lighter for the candles, and then later woke me from my nap when they brought by a torch in case the power stayed off through the night. Thankfully, right around dinner time, it started to flicker on and off, then it stayed on and I jumped out of bed and made my way to The Highlander Inn. An oatmeal stout in hand, dinner in my belly, next step...on to the whisky! The staff here are incredible. The whisky journeys they'd take me on in the next 3 days were out of this world.
And so begins the best race experience I've ever had.
Friday morning, I caught the bus into Dufftown to pick up my rack kit. The excitement in the air was contagious. Because of the banter on instagram and the Dramathon's facebook page, I kept hearing, "Oh! You're the one who walked here!" The whisky was flowing and people were smiling ear to ear. The rain had stopped, the sun was shining, tomorrow was going to be a great day.
And so begins the best race experience I've ever had.
Friday morning, I caught the bus into Dufftown to pick up my rack kit. The excitement in the air was contagious. Because of the banter on instagram and the Dramathon's facebook page, I kept hearing, "Oh! You're the one who walked here!" The whisky was flowing and people were smiling ear to ear. The rain had stopped, the sun was shining, tomorrow was going to be a great day.
I met up with the kind folks who were driving me to the start of the race at The Highlander Inn. We ate, we drank, and then we called it an early night to prepare for the next morning. I got my gear all laid out, then lay in bed to watch some tv. I picked up my phone and saw an email from the race. Race cancelled. Like with this entire trip, I went through a smorgasbord of emotions. I was disappointed, but then, I was also really okay with this. It was the race organizers I really empathized with. This was completely out of their control and not something they would have wanted to do. I felt for all those runners and volunteers who had put in so much effort to get to Dufftown through the yellow, amber and red warnings of Storm Babet.
I messaged the couple from dinner to make sure they'd heard, got dressed, then went straight back to the pub. Within an hour, I was receiving messages from strangers I'd bantered with through The Dramathon's posts on social media, telling me how sorry they were for me the race was cancelled. These were people I'd never met, only encountered over a few posts on social media. This was The Dramathon and one of many reasons why I fell so in love with the race that wasn't.
As I walked up to the bar, Tatsuya looked up and asked, "Have you heard the latest news?" I replied with a big smile as I sat down, "That's why I'm back." Pint in hand, the camaraderie that was a big part of The Dramathon began. My whisky journey for the evening:
Craigellachie 17
Glenmorangie 18
The Glenlivet 18
I messaged the couple from dinner to make sure they'd heard, got dressed, then went straight back to the pub. Within an hour, I was receiving messages from strangers I'd bantered with through The Dramathon's posts on social media, telling me how sorry they were for me the race was cancelled. These were people I'd never met, only encountered over a few posts on social media. This was The Dramathon and one of many reasons why I fell so in love with the race that wasn't.
As I walked up to the bar, Tatsuya looked up and asked, "Have you heard the latest news?" I replied with a big smile as I sat down, "That's why I'm back." Pint in hand, the camaraderie that was a big part of The Dramathon began. My whisky journey for the evening:
Craigellachie 17
Glenmorangie 18
The Glenlivet 18
Saturday morning arrived and it was, once again, monsoon raining. We had to return our dibbers today, so I made my way back to the hall. Taking the bus into Dufftown, roaring through those giant puddles on the side of the road, I was so thankful I wasn't out running in it. I felt for all those volunteers who had shown up to stand in the rain all day, not getting nearly enough thanks. In the hall, there were whisky & apologies flowing. I heard sorry so much, I thought I was back home in Canada. I have a huge fondness for toques, and when I saw they had some available, started to pull out my ziploc of money. Chatting with the gent about my walk to get there and how freaking amazing it was, and no apologies are necessary because I never would have experienced what I did if it hadn't been for the race, he said, "You walked here. I can't take your money."
People are disappointed, but it was out of their control. The police contacted them the previous night & told them, you "could" go ahead, but we're suggesting you don't. SEPA will probably be announcing a flood watch within the hour, which is exactly what happened. Many runners wanted them to call the race much earlier because it wasn't safe for them to get there. But my thoughts are, it's not the race's responsibility to ensure everyone can get to the start line. It's their responsibility to ensure that those of us who do start the race can get to the finish line safely, and up until that flood watch, the course was deemed safe.
The entire weekend, I met only one person who was angry. Everyone else I met was an absolute delight and already planning next year's return to Dufftown. I was repeatedly asked, "You're coming back next year, right?" I wished I could say yes, but my trip had gone to perfection so far. I kept saying, "What could I possibly walk next year to top this?"
I guess I would have no dilemma on how to pack all those wonderful whisky samples into my carry on for the flight across the pond. For all the sadness of not getting the #bestgoodybagintheworld, I more than made up for it with all that free pouring whisky at the Hall on Friday and Saturday, and of course, let's not forget the delight that is The Highlander Inn!
The entire weekend, I met only one person who was angry. Everyone else I met was an absolute delight and already planning next year's return to Dufftown. I was repeatedly asked, "You're coming back next year, right?" I wished I could say yes, but my trip had gone to perfection so far. I kept saying, "What could I possibly walk next year to top this?"
I guess I would have no dilemma on how to pack all those wonderful whisky samples into my carry on for the flight across the pond. For all the sadness of not getting the #bestgoodybagintheworld, I more than made up for it with all that free pouring whisky at the Hall on Friday and Saturday, and of course, let's not forget the delight that is The Highlander Inn!
Another evening, another order of fish 'n chips or steak pie, more pints and more whisky. I was even starting to eat my despised peas. Living the dream.
Tonight was fantastic. The pub was full of those who had come for The Dramathon. I was sitting at the bar when Ruby, one of the "Hong Kong Runners", came up to order. We started chatting, then came the, "Oh! You're the one who walked!", followed by my, "Oh! You're one of the Hong Kong Runners!". She pulled her phone up and grabbed a screenshot of one of The Dramathon's posts, "Is that you!?" I nod. She points above, "That's us!" Instant bonding. Shortly after, Chris, who had overheard Ruby and I, came up to me, "Are you Barb?" Um....yes. I had posted about maybe needing a lift back to Glasgow since the trains had all been cancelled for 48 hours due to Babet. He came to offer me a ride. These little moments I experienced over and over are what made this the greatest race experience I've ever had, and the race didn't even happen. It's all about community. I was so sad to leave the pub that last time.
Tonight's whisky: Maggie's Collection.
I spent 3 days and nights in Craigellachie not doing a damned thing. After 11 days walking to Speyside, I was so content to just laze around. Could I have taken some tours of distilleries? Probably. Could I have done some short day walks or ambled back to Aberlour for more shortbread? Sure. But I was just as happy to pull up a seat at The Highlander Inn and learn about whisky. I spent 3 days eating shortbread and drinking whisky. In the home of Walker's Shortbread and Speyside Whisky, it honestly doesn't get better than that.
Tonight was fantastic. The pub was full of those who had come for The Dramathon. I was sitting at the bar when Ruby, one of the "Hong Kong Runners", came up to order. We started chatting, then came the, "Oh! You're the one who walked!", followed by my, "Oh! You're one of the Hong Kong Runners!". She pulled her phone up and grabbed a screenshot of one of The Dramathon's posts, "Is that you!?" I nod. She points above, "That's us!" Instant bonding. Shortly after, Chris, who had overheard Ruby and I, came up to me, "Are you Barb?" Um....yes. I had posted about maybe needing a lift back to Glasgow since the trains had all been cancelled for 48 hours due to Babet. He came to offer me a ride. These little moments I experienced over and over are what made this the greatest race experience I've ever had, and the race didn't even happen. It's all about community. I was so sad to leave the pub that last time.
Tonight's whisky: Maggie's Collection.
I spent 3 days and nights in Craigellachie not doing a damned thing. After 11 days walking to Speyside, I was so content to just laze around. Could I have taken some tours of distilleries? Probably. Could I have done some short day walks or ambled back to Aberlour for more shortbread? Sure. But I was just as happy to pull up a seat at The Highlander Inn and learn about whisky. I spent 3 days eating shortbread and drinking whisky. In the home of Walker's Shortbread and Speyside Whisky, it honestly doesn't get better than that.
The trains had started running again Saturday morning, so all my stress about getting back to Glasgow was gone and Sunday morning I was in a taxi to Elgin, where I'd catch the train to Inverness, then on to Glasgow. It went seamlessly. I walked into my room at the CitizenM Hotel and was greeted with an amazing card and some snacks. I was so smitten with this. I couldn't figure out how the heck they knew what I had just done. What is this strange cult and how do they know all about me? How famous am I? Then I remembered. When booking my stay, in the 'special requests' box, I had said that I was walking 375km across Scotland to run a marathon and would love a snack or a shot of whisky to help refuel.
Note to self: ALWAYS REQUEST SOMETHING RIDICULOUS WHEN BOOKING HOTELS FROM THIS MOMENT FORWARD.
I loved this hotel. They had a colourful striped horse in the living room/lobby, which I named Charlie. When I left them a review telling them about my love for Charlie, they emailed to thank me for my review and they'd pass on my greeting to Charlie and Sabrina. It was such a cool place and had the dreamiest bed I've ever slept in.
Note to self: ALWAYS REQUEST SOMETHING RIDICULOUS WHEN BOOKING HOTELS FROM THIS MOMENT FORWARD.
I loved this hotel. They had a colourful striped horse in the living room/lobby, which I named Charlie. When I left them a review telling them about my love for Charlie, they emailed to thank me for my review and they'd pass on my greeting to Charlie and Sabrina. It was such a cool place and had the dreamiest bed I've ever slept in.
I had one full day to spend in Glasgow, and I spent it walking everywhere. I went to the Cathedral and the Necropolis. I walked to the park where the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum are. Of course, the day I arrived in Glasgow, all museums went on strike for a week. Of course they did. I walked to the corner of Albion & Trongate to see the devil baby cherub statue. That thing is messed up. I saw Timmy's, a Martyr school, and a "place of useful learning". I used the flashlight on my phone to look into a cracked stone coffin to attempt to aggravate the voices I no longer hear in churches. Not only did it not work, I saw no decomposed bodies. I walked across stepping stones leaving the cathedral, only to realize they were graves.
This trip was unbelievable. I can't think of one negative thing that happened and there could be so many I could focus on. The train cancellations, the yellow warning storm to start my walk, the cancelled race, Babet, the b&b hosts who never showed up, more cancelled trains, delayed flights.
My first day, when I sat at Heathrow in a panic because all the trains were cancelled and my flight to Glasgow was delayed, I was so anxious. I had said, "One day, today will be funny. I mean, if that last day in Ireland is hysterical now, today will be funny."
And it is.
This trip was unbelievable. I can't think of one negative thing that happened and there could be so many I could focus on. The train cancellations, the yellow warning storm to start my walk, the cancelled race, Babet, the b&b hosts who never showed up, more cancelled trains, delayed flights.
My first day, when I sat at Heathrow in a panic because all the trains were cancelled and my flight to Glasgow was delayed, I was so anxious. I had said, "One day, today will be funny. I mean, if that last day in Ireland is hysterical now, today will be funny."
And it is.
Hell, that next morning when I was wading along the West Highland Way, I found it funny. When I met up with my Irish Trio and laughed at their experience the previous day, I found it hysterical.
You absolutely have to find the humour in everything, especially when traveling.
I went through ups and downs mentally this entire trip, yet I relished every second. I panicked when the trains were cancelled and I was coming up with all kinds of scenarios on how to get back to Heathrow in case the trains didn't get moving in time. I was ready to change my flight leaving Glasgow to leave Inverness instead. Little did I know that two days later, I'd have several offers from runners at The Dramathon, ready to give me a lift across the country to get me to Glasgow in time for my flight home to Vancouver.
You absolutely have to find the humour in everything, especially when traveling.
I went through ups and downs mentally this entire trip, yet I relished every second. I panicked when the trains were cancelled and I was coming up with all kinds of scenarios on how to get back to Heathrow in case the trains didn't get moving in time. I was ready to change my flight leaving Glasgow to leave Inverness instead. Little did I know that two days later, I'd have several offers from runners at The Dramathon, ready to give me a lift across the country to get me to Glasgow in time for my flight home to Vancouver.
My Love Letter to The Dramathon:
Thank you.
Thank you for asking me to tag you in my walk to Speyside. The ongoing banter led to the best race experience I've ever had. Coming over to Scotland, I was a stranger from Canada who knew nobody, setting off on this ridiculous adventure. But when I arrived, I was instantly enveloped in friendship.
I never would have had the adventure I had, had it not been for your race. And boy was it an adventure!
I hope I always remain in your top 3 crazy people.
So much love, Booby
❤️
Accommodations & Snacks en route:
West Highland Way
Milngavie - Premier Inn Milngavie - perfectly situated to start walking in the morning. I arrived too late and left too early to get snacks in town, but was able to load up at the Glasgow airport on arrival.
Balmaha - The Oak Tree Inn - great little shop and restaurant on site. Loaded up on snacks at the hotel. Also stopped at the SPAR in Drymen for snacks.
Inverarnan - The Drover's Inn - Restaurant/Pub on site. Outdoor water fountain at Inversnaid Hotel
Bridge Of Orchy - Bridge of Orchy Hotel - Restaurant/Pub on site. Stopped at Tyndrum - Brodie's mini market for snacks
Kinlochleven - Tigh Na Cheo B&B - Muscle relaxing bath salts! - Co-op right in town
Fort William - The Garrison Cells - one block past the finish to the WHW - supplies galore in town.
Great Glen Way
South Laggan - The Great Glen Way Hostel - Amazing staff - check before if relying on them for dinner or breakfast. Small shop on site.
Fort Augustus - Lorien House B&B - Lovely breakfast and the warmest of welcomes - Londis Supermarket right across the river. Fantastic toasted bacon sammie to start my morning.
Drumnadrochit - Loch Ness Inn - Restaurant on site - delicious! Large Co-Op at the roundabout
Inverness - Royal Highland Hotel - situated right beside the train station, making it super handy if traveling via train. Supplies galore!
Moray Coast Trail
Lossiemouth - Firth Hotel - Restaurant on site. Food truck at Roseisle Forest Park, Co-Op in Burghead and Lossiemouth.
Buckie - booked at Struan House but nobody was around, no messages returned and nobody answering the phone. Was supposed to check in at 4. Finally heard from them just after 6pm. They said they were waiting for me and had been at a funeral. All they had to do was communicate this with anyone who had reservations. Stayed at Old Coach House - very outdated, but the gal at check-in was wonderful with my situation. Co-Op in town.
Craigellachie - The Whisky Room - beside Bridge View B&B - Phenomenal - Shops in Dufftown and Aberlour. Walker's Shortbread in Aberlour!
Glasgow - CitizenM Hotel - I absolutely loved this hotel. iPads in every room giving you control of the heating, mood lighting, media, blinds, etc. Plus there's Charlie!! Snacks all over Glasgow.
Gear - basically everything was merino except my rain gear. I wore the same outfit for my last 8 days of hiking, only handwashed my socks and rinsed the crotch of my tights each night, and at the end of 11 days, nothing stank. Sheep are magic - kept to 5.5kg without water and snacks:
Pack - Ultimate Direction FastPackHer 30L - I didn't have a waterproof cover, but had everything inside packed in compressible dry bags. Because the UD Pack is so lightweight, it would dry very quickly once done walking for the day. Nothing inside ever got wet.
Shoes - The North Face Vectiv Enduris Trail Runners, Inov8 TrailRoc's for back up and for evenings
Socks - 2 pairs Darn Tough socks for walking, 1 pair Stance for afterwards, Compressport calf compression sleeves
Bottoms - 1 pair Icebreaker shorts, 1 pair Icebreaker running tights, 1 pair lightweight hiking pants for afterwards
Tops - 1 Icebreaker long sleeve 200wt, 1 Kari Traa long sleeve, 2 Icebreaker short sleeves. On the cool days, I would often wear my two long sleeves doubled up. Short sleeves were always for afterwards.
Bras/Underwear - 3 pairs underwear for after, 2 Icebreaker sports bras, pj's
Rain Gear: Salomon running rain jacket, The North Face Dryzzle Pants
Warm Gear: Icebreaker Toque and gloves. Picked up a fleece neck warmer in Fort William for the colder walk north
Dry sacks - 1 20L for clothes, 2 x 5L - one for toiletries and passport, one for snacks, 1 x 3L for tech (headphones, chargers, adapters, Suunto watch, etc.)
Toiletries - sample size or facial/body moisturizers packed into contact lens cases (this is a game changer for keeping lightweight)
Water: Katadyn BeFree 0.6L soft flask filter - only used once, GSI Outdoors Microlite 500 Twist - super light weight insulated water bottle for hot/cold
Hiking gear: headlamp, Survival poncho, emergency blanket, very minor first aid kit (bandaids, antiseptic wipes, blister packs - picked up Compeed packs and they're phenomenal. Would stay on for 5 - 7 days without budging after walking 7-9 hours a day in and out of water), Ben's DEET wipes, NOK anti chafe cream for my feet, Advil, electrolytes
UK SIM with EE I borrowed from a co-worker. Topped it up when I arrived and had 10GB of data for £10
I also had my Salomon running vest, soft flask and reusable soft cup, and an extra pair of shorts for the race, but didn't use any of these the whole trip.